Thursday, March 26, 2009

Afternoon Sesh


I am a rope access tech, so for a job I rap down buildings and carry out any maintanence or rigging that needs to be done, there are lots of cool jobs that come with it just as there are many boring monotanous ones. For the past month I have been working in the city, so early starts and long peak hour drives can make work........interesting. One awesome thing about working in the city is that along the drive home, the road takes me close to some of the best bouldering in Sydney.
Tuesday afternoon came around and I had the same feeling I had the week before, I wasnt motivated to train at all I didnt want to wait for the weekend to climb, so I didnt. I went to Sissy crag I had a great afternoon, It didnt take long to warm up because I was pretty amped to be out there and after a quick stretch and some warming up I sussed out a line and started going at it
The problem 'Silent Bob V10' is absolutely classic!! It also seeps like a mother after rain or during the heat, the hold just before the crux is soooo wet and damp permanently that its turned a lovely turquoise colour. None the less I padded it down a few times and went for it, I cant express how much I enjoyed doing it, a wicked roof through bad slopers at the end and the crux a high velocity cut loose.
After sussing the moves (and my feet!!) on my first attempt I had it sorted, so the next two shots were frustrating slapping the wrong side of the hold but on my fourth shot I nailed it! I I was so amped after sending it I started thinking how much I wanted to try another problem at a neighbouring crag Crumbly. I didnt think to much actually I packed up my shit sprinted out of there and landed at the walk in ten minutes later. When I arrived there was another dude unloading his pads out of his ute his name is Daniel Da Silva.
Its funny I had been speaking to Dan days earlier and hadnt met yet but was physced to go for a boulder with him. So it was brilliant timing we both scurried down to the cave and after a brief warm up got on 'Mushi Brain V11'. This problem is long and pumping and climbs so rad, great holds big throws and fidgity footwork. I had tried this problem once before but was in no state to do any good, so I surprised myself when I reached a new high point on my first go. Dan did awesome as well, he is one strong dude locking off really tight and climbed mego-smooooth.
Alas it wasnt too long before fatigue set in and with that a friendly little hole in my finger, oh well I am super motivated to get back there and finish it this week but I dont think I'll get there till next week again. Time to train I think, power endurance is where its at.
This weekend if the weather holds out I'll be heading out to the blocs again, unknown where or how but will update with any sends, Im soooo motivated damn I wish I had more skin.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

The Grove

For the past year I have been developing an area with my friends Miles Smythe and Andrew Secomb in Annangrove ( hence the badass abbreviation ). Its awesome, the bouldering there is really diverse. Sandstone boulders, clifflines and caves litter a valley of creek junctions, Although my eyes may be a little biased considering its ten minutes from my house, I really think this place has some amazing potential. So over the weekend on seperate occasions I made the trudge in with Miles and another mate of ours Pete, then again with Andy.
On the first day with Miles and Pete we decided to explore an area we hadnt been to before, walking through the thick scrub isnt a whole lot of fun copping sticks in the nether regions and eating yards of spiderweb, but the possibility of new rock sets delirium upon me and so on we walk. We found a great set of blocs and cliffs with great rock, well textured and gnarly slopey features, of the best I found an overhanging arete covered in slopey dimples and pinches. So after a quick brush and fondle we started throwing ourselves at it.
At first I thought it was super hard, the footholds at the bottom are weak and sandy but very very good, and the holds up top were great and didnt require much brushing after a sequence re-vamp and body re-postiton it went first go, very subtle great fun and the top out was wicked too, So I named it We Are All Gods Trophys Of Grace and stamped it at V8, sneaky little thing.
The next day I headed out with Andy Sea-combit and made the longer walk to the Gecko Cave, this cave is by far the best part of the entire area the holds require almost no brushing ( on the inside of the cave :) ) and is well featured with funky holds spraying the roof. The plan was to link towo existing problems reversing Take The Long Road And Walk It V9 and straight into Beat Me, Whip Me And Make Me Write Bad Cheques V10 ( its customary to name problems as long as possible at this area ).
At first I though the line would bypass the punchy start of Beat Me but as I figured out the moves into it the easiest way was to go through the entirety of both lines making for one steely line. By the end of the session my skin was trashed, but I had managed to make great progress and with a little more power-endurance training that sucker will go down! Not sure how hard but will be the hardest thing I have ever climbed for sure, will get some photos up soon. Lots to do training climbing, planning for an overseas trip!!!
Before that though Ill need to grow some skin.

Pat

Tuesday, March 17, 2009









In The Beginning


Well this is my first blog, so I guess it would be a good idea to explain a little why I started one. This blog will be my soapbox for climbing, my projects, experiments, adventures, sends, friends and occasionally bout life in general. It is my intention to log my progress as I train and push myself to my absolute potential, share lessons learnt, journeys shared and capture the beautiful simple yet complex lifestyle I love so much and form my thoughts and experiences into words and try make some sense out of it all.
Simply it will start it like this though......
I love climbing.